Monday, February 14, 2011

Empire Seafood Restaurant

I've been to Empire twice before.  Each time, it was because my dad found an ad in the newspaper for what he considered a good deal on a seafood set meal, and this time was no different. Well, financially, it was a lot different, because this time I didn't have to pay! Some relatives flew in from overseas, and I get some good company and a good meal. Hooray!

The last two times here cost me $40 and $30 per person respectively for their king crab and lobster dinners. Neither of those experiences really wowed me. It was comparable to other Chinese fine dining in the lower mainland. They do have some unique flavors compared to other expensive Chinese restaurants I've been to, but nothing worth the price point in my opinion. Each time, the centerpiece of the set meal, the seafood, had an underwhelming portion, while the rest of the meal was good and tasty. Lo and behold, we had more of the same this time around.

The unfortunate thing about these set meal dinners at a lot of restaurants is that the menus are written in Chinese characters only, and I can't read these for squat. So, I don't really know what to expect and what everything is called. This time, we had the $128 lobster dinner for 6, but we had a party of 5.

I do know what the first course was though, since this is a common starter for a Chinese meal:  Fish Maw Soup. Empire's version had chunks of crab, shrimp and of course, fish maw in a mild syrupy egg drop soup. This soup is always served with red rice vinegar and white pepper powder on the side, and you season it yourself to taste. I like mine with lots of vinegar, and lots of pepper. Empire's version had lots of real crab, and was delightful to eat. A good start to the meal.

The next course was Peking Duck Wrap. They brought the whole roasted duck out and carve it out in front of you on a side table. You get the skin on top layer of meat, and they take away the rest of the duck. My uncle says they often give you the whole duck when they serve this in Hong Kong, either for the meal or to take home. I've never seen any GVRD restaurants offer this with this dish. The carved duck is served along with some fried rice chips.

What you do with this dish is take the duck, place it on a steamed wrap, garnish with scallions and cucumber, drizzle on some hoisin sauce, then roll up and eat. The duck was roasted to a nice crispness, and nicely fat and moist. The wrapper was also of a good fresh consistency.

Restaurants often give you less wrappers than actual pieces of duck and Empire was no different. I guess they expect you to put more than 1 piece in each wrap, but nobody ever does since it makes you look greedy or foolish if you are left with more wrappers than duck. This isn't a huge problem since the duck is very tasty on its own, and we had a lot left over. They probably would have given us more wrappers if we asked, but we didn't want to fill up on carbs.

Next up was the signature Lobster. This was again an underwhelmingly small specimen. It was cooked in a garlic and ginger sauce, and was the same as other Chinese restaurant lobsters in my opinion. I have to admit that I'm rather indifferent to lobster, crab and other crustaceans in general, so I'm probably a little biased here. I often like the noodles that get served in the sauce much more, and it was disappointing to me that this was just the lobster alone. I wouldn't consider this lobster big enough to satisfy 6 hungry lobster lovers.

We then got served a Fish Stir Fry. We didn't know what type of fish this was, and didn't ask. We just know it wasn't cod. The fish was chopped into nuggets with skin-on and bone-in, fins and everything. Stir fried with onions, garlic, scallions, and a ton of oil. This was incredibly greasy to eat and sat on a pool of oil. If that wasn't bad enough, the fish didn't taste very fresh at all, and had a slightly rotten fish taste to it. Surprisingly, my uncle loved the fish, but nobody else had very much of it.


The next dish was Pork Lettuce Wrap.  I've never liked this dish very much and consider it a cheap overpriced item. It's basically ground pork and chicken stir fried with water chestnuts, onion, garlic, scallions and rice cracker bits. Again, you drizzle on some hoisin sauce, and roll it up to eat, but this time it's on a piece of green lettuce.

For the essential fiber portion of the set meal, we got a plate of Bok Choy and Mushrooms. This was a good assortment of tender mushrooms served on a bed of tender bok choy. I think it was slightly under seasoned and could have used a touch more salt, but was otherwise enjoyable.

The carb portion of this set meal was Fried Sticky Rice. Empire's fried rices have always been a high point of the set meals I've had here before, and it was the case again tonight. They really know how to make good fried rice. The rice was of a good chewy consistency, with each individual grain separate but glutinous and not overly oily. This was fried with bits of dried shrimp, scallions, Chinese sausage, shiitake mushrooms and egg. If there's anything that would entice me to shell out the dough for dining at Empire, it's their fried rice.

The dessert though, was just plain Red Bean Soup. For a seafood set meal, this is a disappointing end. I never understood why high class restaurants choose to serve such an underwhelming item as a complimentary dessert. Dessert is the last item your guests enjoy, and I think it pays to give them something spectacular to end on a high note. Would it really hurt your bottom line to throw in something extra like tapioca pearls, or black glutinous rice, or coconut milk to jazz things up a bit? A lot of places also offer a choice of mango pudding or some other dessert, but we've always ended up with just plain red bean at Empire.

Overall, I'd say the dining experience at Empire is more or less the same as its competitors. Your plates get changed often, and staff are abundant. I think they do have above average decor though. You get a decorative plate underneath your utensil plate, and a nice velvet cloth napkin instead of paper. Their restaurant is also large and very well furnished. We walked in at 6:30 PM without a reservation, and was seated and served right away despite the restaurant looking busy and packed. I think Empire is a decent choice for affordable Chinese fine dining. It's not cheap, but doesn't totally break the bank either.

The meal today was a little less impressive than the last two we had here. Last times, the set meals included an awesome almost western style tangy Pork Rib Onion Stew, and very fragrant Yeung Chow Fried Rice with Taro. These weren't items you typically see on a competitor's menu and I thought they were both incredibly delightful to eat. I was hoping to see these again tonight, but we got a more typical serving of dishes instead.

Pros:
-very good fried rice dishes
-large and adequately staffed
-attentive service
-good decor

Cons:
-small seafood portions
-not cheap
-complimentary dessert could use some choice or pizazz for what you're paying

Notes:
-abundant free parking in mall complex

Empire Seafood Restaurant on Urbanspoon

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